The Journal
This project was designed to intimately explore and document Mary Phelps Jacob’s journey—from her initial struggles with the restrictive corsets of her time to the groundbreaking invention of the modern bra, which would forever change the lives of women around the world. Through this narrative, I sought to delve into the challenges and setbacks she encountered, not just in terms of the technical aspects of her invention, but also in facing the societal views and norms that often resisted change.
The journal aims to provide a comprehensive look at Mary’s life during this period, offering insights into her personal experiences and the broader context of womanhood at the time. It captures her moments of doubt, the creative process behind the invention, and the determination that drove her to secure a patent, despite the obstacles in her path.
In addition to her own perseverance, the journal highlights the invaluable support she received from her friends and family. These relationships played a crucial role in helping her navigate the complexities of bringing her invention to market. The journal details the camaraderie and encouragement she found in her social circle, which not only fuelled her resolve but also provided the emotional and practical support necessary to push forward.
Finally, it touches on the broader implications of her invention—the societal impact and the gradual shift in how women viewed themselves and their comfort. It reflects on the legacy of the bra, an invention that began as a personal solution to a discomfort and grew into a symbol of women’s evolving role in society. The journal closes by contemplating how Mary’s journey, filled with both personal and professional triumphs, not only led to the successful patenting of the bra but also paved the way for future innovations in women's fashion and beyond.
Through this exploration, the journal serves as a tribute to Mary Phelps Jacob’s resilience and ingenuity, offering a detailed and thoughtful reflection on how one woman’s determination can ripple out to create lasting change for generations to come.
Process
Cutting & Threading
To create this artefact, capturing the essence of something old and well-used was crucial. To achieve this effect, after printing the designs, I aged the Surrey sheets—the thick, light colour sheets—by applying tea bags and muslin cloth soaked in black coffee. This process gave the paper a weathered, vintage appearance. I then carefully tore the edges using just a scale, adding to the intentional look of age and wear.
For the journal cover, I printed a plain leather-brown color onto Surrey paper, then dipped it in water and left it to dry. This technique gave the cover an artificial leather feel with just the right texture, enhancing the overall aesthetic.
I loosely bound the journal with red thread, accounting for the varied thickness of the pages—some made from thin, used paper bags, and others from much thicker materials. This binding method allowed for flexibility and contributed to the handcrafted, authentic feel of the finished artifact.
Photography
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